Cumberland Street in Yorkville, July 29, 2010. Image by Peter Mintz. Courtesy of City of Toronto Archives.
Image of mural featuring "Siva" Sathasivam with the original owners of Toni Bulloni, artist unknown. Image by Shanelle Kandiah, 2014. Courtesy of TamilCulture.com.
Toni Bulloni
Help Wanted
In the 1980s, new refugees looking for work were often pointed towards the neighbourhood of Yorkville, where the kitchens of posh restaurants were always in need of dishwashers and prep cooks. The result was a large contrast between the Tamil refugee workers at the back of house and the normally white front of house service. A Tamil waiter, bartender or host at a Yorkville restaurant was a rare sight.
Over time, many Tamil kitchen workers climbed the ladder and became head chefs or kitchen managers, cementing their roles in both prepping the meals and planning the menus. This included Toni Bulloni, an Italian restaurant that once stood on Cumberland Street, where “Siva” Sathasivam joined the team and made his mark on this small trattoria’s menu, and the community that adored it.
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Toni Bulloni
Restaurant Work
Siva started his career in Canada after seeing a sign calling for a dishwasher in another Yorkville restaurant, one that was not too far from Toni Bulloni, called Bloor Street Diner. He knew dishwashing would not be enough to support his family, so he became determined to find something better. Eventually he worked his way from dishwasher to kitchen manager, but he left the restaurant industry with the intention of pursuing other ventures. He did just that, owning a Sri Lankan grocery store and a hair salon.
But financial issues pushed Siva back into the restaurant industry, and he applied for a position at Toni Bulloni, where he ended up working as a dishwasher once again. Just like before, Siva threw himself into whatever task he was given and quickly became a beloved fixture of the restaurant.
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Toni Bulloni
A Unique Flair
During his time at Toni Bulloni, Siva developed menus for over fifteen years, showcasing his skills in spicing up dishes and playing with flavours. He was known for customizing dishes to his diner’s palates, or having special order items like Jaffna-style rice and curry. Many of his customers were introduced to Sri Lankan-style dishes in this Italian restaurant.
Just like other Yorkville restaurants, celebrity visitors also often came to Toni Bulloni’s, including Sean Connery and the Rolling Stones. In 2016, after 20 years, Toni Bulloni closed its Cumberland location. By then, it had become a treasured part of the Yorkville community, and many customers said they would miss the delicious food, cozy atmosphere, and of course, Siva’s friendly face behind the bar.
